Journeys in photographs and words.

Places we stopped along the way

Chuo, Tokyo

Tenyasu Honten (tsukudani)

From: A downtown table in a Tokyo row house

The tsukudani shop's storefront with its noren and banner
The tsukudani shop's storefront with its noren and banner

Founded in 1837, this is the oldest tsukudani shop still standing in Tsukuda. In a narrow-fronted townhouse, the glass case holds tsukudani of clams, tiny shrimp, kelp and squid, sold by weight. I bought clam and kelp tsukudani for breakfast.

1-3-14 Tsukuda, Chuo, Tokyo

Sources: tenyasu.jp city.chuo.lg.jp mec-h.com

This moment in the journey

A tsukudani shop from 1837

Under the eaves hung an old wooden sign reading Ganso Tsukudani Tenyasu. Founded in 1837, in the Tenpo era, it is the oldest tsukudani shop still standing in Tsukuda. A noren curtain with the shop's name hung from the tiled eaves, and a banner out front announced the founding year.

Inside the glass case, tsukudani was heaped in red wooden trays: squid, clams. A storefront that feels like the good old days, a world apart from Tokyo's glittering towers.

Watch this scene on YouTube0:32

Read this scene in the full journey

An old wooden sign reading Ganso Tsukudani Tenyasu
An old wooden sign reading Ganso Tsukudani Tenyasu
Tsukudani in the glass case, with price tags for squid and clams
Tsukudani in the glass case, with price tags for squid and clams
The Tenyasu noren hanging from the tiled eaves
The Tenyasu noren hanging from the tiled eaves