Journeys in photographs and words.

Places we stopped along the way

Taito, Tokyo

Umemura (Japanese sweets)

From: An Asakusa food diary that begins at an old coffee house

Cream anmitsu topped with ice cream
Cream anmitsu topped with ice cream

A sweets shop in Kannon-ura, in business since 1968. Its signature mamekan, which it claims to have originated, pairs plump simmered red peas and agar with a clean-tasting kuromitsu syrup. This time I ordered cream anmitsu. The noren reads "fine sweets, shiruko." The shop has also been featured in the manga The Solitary Gourmet.

3-22-12 Asakusa, Taito, Tokyo

Sources: tv-tokyo.co.jp aumo.jp kinarino.jp

This moment in the journey

Mamekan behind the Kannon

Let's go north, through a lane of little bars and across Kototoi Street. Beyond it lies a quiet neighborhood called Kannon-ura, "behind the Kannon." It once flourished as a geisha district, and buildings that keep the feel of those days are still scattered about. You can feel the calm, old-fashioned air of Edo's shitamachi.

Under a red awning is Umemura, a sweets shop in business since 1968 and the birthplace of mamekan. Its noren curtain reads "fine sweets, shiruko." The flavorful beans and the smooth agar are wonderful, and people keep coming from far away for this long-loved taste. The shop is also known for appearing in the manga The Solitary Gourmet.

This time I treated myself to cream anmitsu: agar cubes, red peas, sweet bean paste, a cherry, mandarin segments, colorful sugar-dusted cubes and a scoop of ice cream. A fun taste, perfect for the afterglow of a day at the amusement park. Once you try it, you'll want to come back again.

Watch this scene on YouTube8:32

Read this scene in the full journey

A lane of bars with plastic curtains drawn
A lane of bars with plastic curtains drawn
A lively lane full of people
A lively lane full of people
Standing before Umemura's red awning
Standing before Umemura's red awning
The noren reading "fine sweets, shiruko"
The noren reading "fine sweets, shiruko"
Bicycles parked outside Umemura
Bicycles parked outside Umemura
A close-up of the cherry, mandarin and bean paste
A close-up of the cherry, mandarin and bean paste
Dipping the spoon into the anmitsu
Dipping the spoon into the anmitsu
Agar and red peas on the spoon
Agar and red peas on the spoon