Journeys in photographs and words.
EpisodesNachikatsuura, Wakayama

A TRAVEL ESSAY

Nachikatsuura, Wakayama

A dreamy old house

Nachikatsuura:the sea from afishing-village window

Fresh tuna and Nachi Falls: a day in a hilltop house above the sea.

Film published 78 photos

Read the journey
Standing at the shoji window, looking over the tiled roofs to the bay
Standing at the shoji window, looking over the tiled roofs to the bayNACHIKATSUURA, WAKAYAMA

ABOUT THIS JOURNEY

In an old house on a hill above a ria-coast bay, breakfast was ochazuke with the saba heshiko I had bought in Ine. I looked up at Nachi Falls, one of Japan's three great waterfalls, and ate a tuna bowl at Katsuura, the port with Japan's biggest landings of fresh tuna. On the way home I bought a tuna collar and mandarins at unstaffed stands, and that night I grilled the collar over charcoal on the terrace. A day of sea, waterfall and tuna.

A little more about the food and the land

01TRAVEL JOURNAL

A house on the hill above the bay

I woke up in a fishing village where the houses climb the slopes around the water. The house I had borrowed stands on a small hill with a view over the whole bay. Through the open window, beyond the tiled roofs, lay the still sea and the village on the far shore.

The star of this morning was saba heshiko, which I had bought on my last trip to Ine, in Kyoto: salted mackerel pickled in rice bran, a preserved food from the Sea of Japan coast. I unwrapped the paper, laid the fish on the cutting board and sliced it thin.

Watch this scene on YouTube0:22
A fishing village lining the head of the bay, tiled roofs in front
01A fishing village lining the head of the bay, tiled roofs in front
A paper-wrapped pack of saba heshiko on the cutting board
02A paper-wrapped pack of saba heshiko on the cutting board
Setting the heshiko on the board in the kitchen
03Setting the heshiko on the board in the kitchen
Slicing the heshiko, seen from behind
04Slicing the heshiko, seen from behind
Saba heshiko and a knife on the wooden board
05Saba heshiko and a knife on the wooden board
Standing at the window of a dim room, the village across the bay beyond
06Standing at the window of a dim room, the village across the bay beyond
Standing at the shoji window, looking over the tiled roofs to the bay
07Standing at the shoji window, looking over the tiled roofs to the bay

02TRAVEL JOURNAL

Ochazuke with heshiko

I laid the slices over freshly cooked rice and poured hot tea from a glass teapot. A specialty of the Sea of Japan, eaten for breakfast on the shore of the Kii Peninsula.

I set the bowl on a tray by the window and picked up my chopsticks, looking out at the sea. The salt and the deep, aged flavor of the fish melted into the tea, and the rice disappeared quickly.

Watch this scene on YouTube0:42
Pouring tea from a glass pot over rice topped with heshiko
08Pouring tea from a glass pot over rice topped with heshiko
Pouring tea on a tray by the window, the bay beyond the roofs
09Pouring tea on a tray by the window, the bay beyond the roofs
A glass teapot and a bowl of ochazuke on the tray
10A glass teapot and a bowl of ochazuke on the tray
A close-up of the ochazuke, chopsticks lifting a slice of heshiko
11A close-up of the ochazuke, chopsticks lifting a slice of heshiko

03TRAVEL JOURNAL

At the head of a ria-coast bay

This is a fishing village tucked into the head of a bay on a ria coastline. With the shoji pushed open, the window filled with a bay ringed by mountains. Aquaculture rafts floated on the water, and even the kitchen window looked out to sea.

On the terrace stood a charcoal grill and a chair; under the eaves hung a tin dustpan. I left the house and went down the narrow steps between the houses. The village, stacked up the slopes around the water, is a beautiful sight.

Down a lane of overlapping tiled roofs and through a plank-walled alley, the sea glittered at the end. It felt like the opening of a story, and I was excited. My wandering trip through Kumano and Nachikatsuura had begun.

Watch this scene on YouTube0:52
From the tatami room, looking out at the bay from the window
12From the tatami room, looking out at the bay from the window
The kitchen tap and the bay glittering beyond the tiled roof
13The kitchen tap and the bay glittering beyond the tiled roof
The terrace with a charcoal grill and a chair, the bay in the morning
14The terrace with a charcoal grill and a chair, the bay in the morning
Looking out to sea through the open shoji
15Looking out to sea through the open shoji
Lifting a bowl from the tray, roofs and sea behind
16Lifting a bowl from the tray, roofs and sea behind
A tin dustpan hanging in front of the shoji
17A tin dustpan hanging in front of the shoji
Going down the steps between the houses, the bay below
18Going down the steps between the houses, the bay below
Descending a lane through the village's overlapping tiled roofs
19Descending a lane through the village's overlapping tiled roofs
Heading down a plank-walled alley toward the sea
20Heading down a plank-walled alley toward the sea
The bay glimpsed between tin-walled houses
21The bay glimpsed between tin-walled houses

04TRAVEL JOURNAL

Nachi Falls, one of Japan's three great waterfalls

My first stop was Nachi Falls, one of Japan's three most famous waterfalls. Beyond a vermilion three-storied pagoda, a white ribbon of water dropped in a single straight line.

Past a stone marker reading "World Heritage: Nachi Falls," I walked down an approach lined with cedars. Above a rocky bed hung with a sacred rope, the 133-meter waterfall came crashing down. It has long been worshipped as the sacred body of Hiro Shrine, and its history is said to reach back before the common era. Legend also has it that touching the spray will help you live a long life.

At the shrine counter, firewood burned in a brazier, and the votive plaques bore the three-legged crow Yatagarasu, the divine messenger said to have guided Japan's first emperor. I climbed a stone stairway between the cedars and gazed at the mossy roots of a great tree. It was a place where I could touch Japanese history.

Watch this scene on YouTube1:43
The vermilion railing of the three-storied pagoda and Nachi Falls
22The vermilion railing of the three-storied pagoda and Nachi Falls
The vermilion pagoda against the mountain, Nachi Falls dropping in a single line
23The vermilion pagoda against the mountain, Nachi Falls dropping in a single line
A stone marker reading World Heritage Nachi Falls among the cedars
24A stone marker reading World Heritage Nachi Falls among the cedars
The approach lined with cedars, sunlight through the branches
25The approach lined with cedars, sunlight through the branches
Nachi Falls plunging above a rocky bed hung with a shimenawa rope
26Nachi Falls plunging above a rocky bed hung with a shimenawa rope
The shrine counter with amulets and prayer sticks
27The shrine counter with amulets and prayer sticks
Firewood burning in a brazier
28Firewood burning in a brazier
An ema plaque of the three-legged crow Yatagarasu, reading Musubi no Miya
29An ema plaque of the three-legged crow Yatagarasu, reading Musubi no Miya
Two candles burning by a window
30Two candles burning by a window
Stone steps climbing between cedars, with visitors on the way up
31Stone steps climbing between cedars, with visitors on the way up
The mossy roots of a great tree
32The mossy roots of a great tree

05TRAVEL JOURNAL

Katsuura port and the fresh-tuna market

And the taste of Nachikatsuura is tuna. Katsuura Fishing Port boasts the largest landings of fresh, never-frozen tuna in Japan. Inside the Katsuura Fishing Port Nigiwai Market, a whole tuna lay on ice, being cut into blocks and packed on the spot.

The shop's chalkboard read "The owner bids at the auction every morning" and "a tuna wholesaler's staff-meal bowl." No wonder so many places in this town serve tuna bowls.

Watch this scene on YouTube2:29
The Nigiwai Market sign and the harbor building, walking toward it
33The Nigiwai Market sign and the harbor building, walking toward it
A whole fresh tuna lying on ice
34A whole fresh tuna lying on ice
Cutting tuna into blocks with blue-gloved hands
35Cutting tuna into blocks with blue-gloved hands
Cutting and packing tuna at the butchering counter
36Cutting and packing tuna at the butchering counter
The shop's chalkboard listing local-fish bowls and the staff-meal tuna bowl
37The shop's chalkboard listing local-fish bowls and the staff-meal tuna bowl

06TRAVEL JOURNAL

A tuna bowl at the best seat on the harbor

The table facing the harbor is the best seat in the house. I poured a German non-alcoholic beer and drank the first glass with the view, which made it taste even better.

Then came the Nachikatsuura tuna bowl, made with fresh tuna. Under the shredded nori and green onions lay a generous pile of red meat. Never having been frozen, it was soft and pleasantly chewy. The recommended way is to top it with an egg yolk. Seafood bowl plus egg: that will be on the exam. The richness went up another notch.

After lunch I wandered along the harbor. Hotels stood on the cliff top and across the water, and fishing boats lined the quay. Beside the market there was a footbath, and I sat on a wooden bench for a while, looking out at the port.

Watch this scene on YouTube2:43
Setting a can of beer on the harborside table, buildings across the water
38Setting a can of beer on the harborside table, buildings across the water
Pouring beer into a glass in front of the harbor
39Pouring beer into a glass in front of the harbor
The bay and a red mooring bollard seen from the seat
40The bay and a red mooring bollard seen from the seat
A close-up of the fresh tuna bowl topped with shredded nori and green onions
41A close-up of the fresh tuna bowl topped with shredded nori and green onions
The bowl and a glass on the harborside table
42The bowl and a glass on the harborside table
Dropping an egg yolk into the center of the tuna bowl
43Dropping an egg yolk into the center of the tuna bowl
Chopsticks in hand, the harbor quay beyond
44Chopsticks in hand, the harbor quay beyond
A building on the cliff top and fishing boats in the harbor
45A building on the cliff top and fishing boats in the harbor
A hotel across the harbor and small fishing boats
46A hotel across the harbor and small fishing boats
Hot water flowing over the stone rim of a footbath
47Hot water flowing over the stone rim of a footbath
Sitting on a wooden bench, looking out at the harbor
48Sitting on a wooden bench, looking out at the harbor

07TRAVEL JOURNAL

The self-service tuna shop

I passed under the "Welcome to Katsuura" gate and through the Izakata Street arcade. Around Katsuura port, I had heard, there are several unstaffed shops selling fresh tuna. How could I not be curious?

The one I stopped at had a sign reading "Fresh Tuna Self-Service Shop." A board on the wall announced today's special: chewy, wild-caught fresh yellowfin. Packs of fresh tuna with handwritten prices were laid out on a blue counter. I decided to buy a tuna collar too. You put the money in the payment box. Thank you, come again.

Watch this scene on YouTube3:27
The Welcome to Katsuura gate and a bus
49The Welcome to Katsuura gate and a bus
The entrance to the Izakata Street arcade
50The entrance to the Izakata Street arcade
A Today's Special board on the wall of the fresh-tuna shop
51A Today's Special board on the wall of the fresh-tuna shop
Standing at the front of the self-service fresh-tuna shop
52Standing at the front of the self-service fresh-tuna shop
Packs of fresh tuna on a blue counter with handwritten prices
53Packs of fresh tuna on a blue counter with handwritten prices
Picking up a pack labeled tuna collar
54Picking up a pack labeled tuna collar
Putting the money into the payment box
55Putting the money into the payment box

08TRAVEL JOURNAL

Mandarins, also self-service

On the way home I stopped at a roadside farm stand, also unstaffed. Bags of mandarins lined the covered shelves, and a chalkboard advertised extra-early mandarins. I picked up a bag of the autumn fruit, still tinged with green.

Watch this scene on YouTube3:51
A roadside farm stand and a vending machine
56A roadside farm stand and a vending machine
A chalkboard for extra-early mandarins and bags of fruit
57A chalkboard for extra-early mandarins and bags of fruit
Bags of mandarins on covered shelves at the unstaffed stand
58Bags of mandarins on covered shelves at the unstaffed stand
Picking up a bag of mandarins
59Picking up a bag of mandarins

09TRAVEL JOURNAL

Home again

A red postbox in front of a shop, fishing boats along a stone quay. I parked in the lot by the sea and climbed back up to the house on the hill. I'm home.

I set the bag of mandarins by the window and looked down over the bay and the village from a chair on the terrace. The sun was sinking, and the shadow of the mountain stretched out across the water.

Watch this scene on YouTube4:02
A red cylindrical postbox in front of a shop
60A red cylindrical postbox in front of a shop
Fishing boats along a stone quay, houses behind
61Fishing boats along a stone quay, houses behind
Cars parked in a lot by the sea
62Cars parked in a lot by the sea
Going in from the terrace, the bay behind
63Going in from the terrace, the bay behind
The bag of mandarins set by the window
64The bag of mandarins set by the window
The village and the bay seen from a chair on the terrace
65The village and the bay seen from a chair on the terrace

10TRAVEL JOURNAL

Tuna collar on the coals, and fresh tuna again

The tuna collar would be grilled slowly over charcoal. I lit the coals in the shichirin and laid the big collar on the wire mesh. On the little table on the terrace waited sashimi of the fresh tuna from the self-service shop, and a beer. Good fish to round off a good day.

While the collar cooked, I enjoyed my evening drink. My second fresh tuna of the day: lean red meat and pale, fatty cuts. That soft, chewy texture had completely won me over.

Watch this scene on YouTube4:31
Red-hot charcoal under the grill of the shichirin
66Red-hot charcoal under the grill of the shichirin
Laying the tuna collar on the grill, roofs and sea behind
67Laying the tuna collar on the grill, roofs and sea behind
Sitting at the little terrace table, the bay in the evening
68Sitting at the little terrace table, the bay in the evening
A plate of fresh tuna sashimi with beer and soy sauce
69A plate of fresh tuna sashimi with beer and soy sauce
Reaching for the glass beside the sashimi
70Reaching for the glass beside the sashimi
Lifting a slice of red tuna with chopsticks
71Lifting a slice of red tuna with chopsticks
Sitting on the terrace with chopsticks as the bay darkens
72Sitting on the terrace with chopsticks as the bay darkens

11TRAVEL JOURNAL

The bay at dusk

On the grill, the skin of the collar tightened and the fat dripped onto the coals with a fragrant sizzle. Beyond the sink, the bay sank into deep blue, and lights came on in the houses across the water.

I ate the collar hot off the grill, looking out over the darkened bay. What a peaceful way to spend an evening.

Watch this scene on YouTube5:20
The tuna collar grilling on the wire mesh
73The tuna collar grilling on the wire mesh
The grill and tuna collar at dusk, lights blurred behind
74The grill and tuna collar at dusk, lights blurred behind
Standing by the grill with a glass as the bay fades into dusk
75Standing by the grill with a glass as the bay fades into dusk
The outdoor tap and the bay sinking into blue
76The outdoor tap and the bay sinking into blue
A close-up of the tuna collar, charred and glistening over the coals
77A close-up of the tuna collar, charred and glistening over the coals
Sitting on the terrace at night, lights across the bay
78Sitting on the terrace at night, lights across the bay

THE JOURNEY IN FILM

The wind. The sounds of a kitchen.

Spend a little more time inside the journey, on film.

Watch the video6 min

THE BORROWER’S NOTES

The Borrower's Notes: Nachikatsuura, Wakayama

Places we stopped, dishes we made, and stories of the land. A few things to keep from the journey.

01Where I ate and shopped

  • Ichiba Gohan Shige

    Ichiba Gohan Shige

    7-12 Tsukiji, Nachikatsuura, Higashimuro District, Wakayama (inside Katsuura Fishing Port Nigiwai Market)

    A rice-bowl stand in the food court of Katsuura Fishing Port Nigiwai Market, ordered through a ticket machine. The owner bids for the fish at the morning auction. I had the "tuna wholesaler's staff-meal bowl": fresh tuna under shredded nori and green onions, finished with an egg yolk. There are seats looking out over the harbor.

    Sources: tabelog.com retty.me

  • Kinoshita Suisanbutsu Fresh Tuna Self-Service Shop

    Kinoshita Suisanbutsu Fresh Tuna Self-Service Shop

    8-6-5 Tsukiji, Nachikatsuura, Higashimuro District, Wakayama

    A self-service shop run by a fresh-tuna wholesaler. Packs of fresh tuna sashimi are laid out on a blue counter, with the day's special written on a board on the wall. You pay by putting the money in the box at the front. I bought a tuna collar and a pack of sashimi.

    Sources: yukoyuko.net

  • Fruit Market Ichigi

    Fruit Market Ichigi

    An unstaffed roadside farm stand. Bags of mandarins sit on covered shelves, with the variety and price chalked on a board. Growers from Mihama and Kumano in Mie, a region known for its citrus, each bring their own fruit. I bought extra-early mandarins, the first of the autumn.

    Sources: pref.mie.lg.jp

02What I cooked

  • Ochazuke with saba heshiko

    Ochazuke with saba heshiko

    Heshiko is a traditional preserved food of the Wakasa region of Fukui: gutted mackerel is salted, then packed in rice bran and left to cure for months. It was a precious source of protein for getting through the winter, and is said to date back to the mid-Edo period. The bran is scraped off and the fish sliced and lightly grilled, or eaten in ochazuke, as a side with sake, or inside rice balls. This time, heshiko bought in Ine, Kyoto, became ochazuke in a fishing village on the Kii Peninsula.

    IngredientsCooked rice, Saba heshiko (mackerel pickled in rice bran), Hot tea

    1. Unwrap the heshiko and slice it thin
    2. Lay the slices over the rice
    3. Pour hot tea from the pot over the bowl

    Sources: maff.go.jp

  • Charcoal-grilled tuna collar

    Charcoal-grilled tuna collar

    Nachikatsuura is a fishing town that boasts Japan's largest landings of fresh tuna. The people of Katsuura port are committed to longline fishing, and the port has admitted only longline boats since the 1970s. I bought the collar of a line-caught, never-frozen tuna at a self-service shop near the harbor and grilled it over charcoal on the terrace of the house on the hill.

    IngredientsFresh tuna collar, Charcoal

    1. Light charcoal in a shichirin grill
    2. Lay the collar on the wire mesh and grill it slowly
    3. It is ready when the skin has tightened and browned

    Sources: pref.wakayama.lg.jp

  • Fresh tuna sashimi

    Fresh tuna sashimi

    Katsuura's fresh tuna, never frozen, has a soft, chewy texture. After the tuna bowl at lunch, this was my second fresh tuna of the day, eaten with a beer while the collar grilled over the coals.

    IngredientsFresh tuna (lean red meat and fatty cuts), Shiso leaf, Shredded daikon, Soy sauce

    1. Arrange the sashimi on a plate with shredded daikon and shiso
    2. Eat with soy sauce

03About the area

  • Nachi Falls (Hiro Shrine)

    Nachi Falls (Hiro Shrine)

    One of Japan's three great waterfalls: 13 meters wide at the lip, with a 10-meter-deep basin, it drops 133 meters in a single fall. The waterfall itself is the sacred body of Hiro Shrine, an auxiliary shrine of Kumano Nachi Taisha, and tradition holds that worship here began when Emperor Jimmu revered the falls as a deity. Near the viewing platform, the "water of long life" can be drunk from a small ceremonial cup. The falls were designated a national Place of Scenic Beauty in 1972 and became part of the World Heritage site "Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range" in 2004.

    Sources: pref.wakayama.lg.jp ja.wikipedia.org

  • Kumano Nachi Taisha and the Yatagarasu

    Kumano Nachi Taisha and the Yatagarasu

    One of the three grand shrines of Kumano, born of the worship of Nachi Falls, with a history of about 1,700 years. Legend says the Yatagarasu, the great three-legged crow that guided Emperor Jimmu to Nara, alighted here, and the bird appears on the shrine's votive plaques. Every July, during the Nachi Fire Festival, the deities are carried in portable shrines back to the falls for a "homecoming."

    Sources: mlit.go.jp

  • Katsuura's fresh tuna

    Katsuura's fresh tuna

    With the Kuroshio current flowing offshore and a deeply indented coastline, Nachikatsuura is a fishing town with Japan's largest landings of fresh tuna. The people of Katsuura port are committed to longline fishing, and since the 1970s only longline boats have been admitted. The tuna is caught one fish at a time and shipped without freezing, which is why it is sold here as "fresh tuna." Many places in town serve tuna bowls, and there are even unstaffed tuna shops around the harbor.

    Sources: pref.wakayama.lg.jp

  • Katsuura Fishing Port Nigiwai Market and the Umi no Yu footbath

    Katsuura Fishing Port Nigiwai Market and the Umi no Yu footbath

    7-12 Tsukiji, Nachikatsuura, Higashimuro District, Wakayama

    A market beside Katsuura Fishing Port, with a direct-sales area for fresh tuna, dried local fish and vegetables, and a food court of tuna dishes, sushi and set meals. A tuna-cutting demonstration is held every day. Right next door is Umi no Yu, a free footbath with a view of the sea.

    Sources: pref.wakayama.lg.jp rurubu.jp

  • Saba heshiko

    Saba heshiko

    A preserved food of the Wakasa region of Fukui: mackerel is salted and then cured in rice bran for about half a year, giving it a strong, salty, almost smoky flavor. Seafood from Wakasa was carried to the old capital, mostly salted mackerel, along what later became known as the Saba Kaido, the "mackerel road." This heshiko came from Ine in Kyoto, which I had visited on my previous trip.

    Sources: maff.go.jp

  • An old house on the hill above the bay

    An old house on the hill above the bay

    This time I borrowed an old house on a small hill in a fishing village at the head of a ria-coast bay. Open the shoji and the window fills with the bay; from the terrace, with its charcoal grill, you look down over the village's tiled roofs to the sea.

See notes from other journeys

PHOTO ALBUMPhoto album78Open all photographsClose the photo album

Select a photograph to explore the journey one frame at a time.

01A house on the hill above the bay

A fishing village lining the head of the bay, tiled roofs in front01A paper-wrapped pack of saba heshiko on the cutting board02Setting the heshiko on the board in the kitchen03Slicing the heshiko, seen from behind04Saba heshiko and a knife on the wooden board05Standing at the window of a dim room, the village across the bay beyond06Standing at the shoji window, looking over the tiled roofs to the bay07

02Ochazuke with heshiko

Pouring tea from a glass pot over rice topped with heshiko08Pouring tea on a tray by the window, the bay beyond the roofs09A glass teapot and a bowl of ochazuke on the tray10A close-up of the ochazuke, chopsticks lifting a slice of heshiko11

03At the head of a ria-coast bay

From the tatami room, looking out at the bay from the window12The kitchen tap and the bay glittering beyond the tiled roof13The terrace with a charcoal grill and a chair, the bay in the morning14Looking out to sea through the open shoji15Lifting a bowl from the tray, roofs and sea behind16A tin dustpan hanging in front of the shoji17Going down the steps between the houses, the bay below18Descending a lane through the village's overlapping tiled roofs19Heading down a plank-walled alley toward the sea20The bay glimpsed between tin-walled houses21

04Nachi Falls, one of Japan's three great waterfalls

The vermilion railing of the three-storied pagoda and Nachi Falls22The vermilion pagoda against the mountain, Nachi Falls dropping in a single line23A stone marker reading World Heritage Nachi Falls among the cedars24The approach lined with cedars, sunlight through the branches25Nachi Falls plunging above a rocky bed hung with a shimenawa rope26The shrine counter with amulets and prayer sticks27Firewood burning in a brazier28An ema plaque of the three-legged crow Yatagarasu, reading Musubi no Miya29Two candles burning by a window30Stone steps climbing between cedars, with visitors on the way up31The mossy roots of a great tree32

05Katsuura port and the fresh-tuna market

The Nigiwai Market sign and the harbor building, walking toward it33A whole fresh tuna lying on ice34Cutting tuna into blocks with blue-gloved hands35Cutting and packing tuna at the butchering counter36The shop's chalkboard listing local-fish bowls and the staff-meal tuna bowl37

06A tuna bowl at the best seat on the harbor

Setting a can of beer on the harborside table, buildings across the water38Pouring beer into a glass in front of the harbor39The bay and a red mooring bollard seen from the seat40A close-up of the fresh tuna bowl topped with shredded nori and green onions41The bowl and a glass on the harborside table42Dropping an egg yolk into the center of the tuna bowl43Chopsticks in hand, the harbor quay beyond44A building on the cliff top and fishing boats in the harbor45A hotel across the harbor and small fishing boats46Hot water flowing over the stone rim of a footbath47Sitting on a wooden bench, looking out at the harbor48

07The self-service tuna shop

The Welcome to Katsuura gate and a bus49The entrance to the Izakata Street arcade50A Today's Special board on the wall of the fresh-tuna shop51Standing at the front of the self-service fresh-tuna shop52Packs of fresh tuna on a blue counter with handwritten prices53Picking up a pack labeled tuna collar54Putting the money into the payment box55

08Mandarins, also self-service

A roadside farm stand and a vending machine56A chalkboard for extra-early mandarins and bags of fruit57Bags of mandarins on covered shelves at the unstaffed stand58Picking up a bag of mandarins59

09Home again

A red cylindrical postbox in front of a shop60Fishing boats along a stone quay, houses behind61Cars parked in a lot by the sea62Going in from the terrace, the bay behind63The bag of mandarins set by the window64The village and the bay seen from a chair on the terrace65

10Tuna collar on the coals, and fresh tuna again

Red-hot charcoal under the grill of the shichirin66Laying the tuna collar on the grill, roofs and sea behind67Sitting at the little terrace table, the bay in the evening68A plate of fresh tuna sashimi with beer and soy sauce69Reaching for the glass beside the sashimi70Lifting a slice of red tuna with chopsticks71Sitting on the terrace with chopsticks as the bay darkens72

11The bay at dusk

The tuna collar grilling on the wire mesh73The grill and tuna collar at dusk, lights blurred behind74Standing by the grill with a glass as the bay fades into dusk75The outdoor tap and the bay sinking into blue76A close-up of the tuna collar, charred and glistening over the coals77Sitting on the terrace at night, lights across the bay78

← All episodes

Open original photo