Journeys in photographs and words.

Cook the local flavors once more

Hamamatsu, Shizuoka

Skewered yamame trout

From: Lighting the kamado in a house in the sky

A yamame, salt-grilled to a crisp
A yamame, salt-grilled to a crisp

Every summer a yamame-catching festival is held on the Misakubo River (the 28th was in July 2025). Skewered and stood in the hearth ash, the fish roast slowly in the radiant heat of the charcoal until the skin is crisp and the flesh fluffy.

Ingredients

  • Yamame (masu trout)
  • Salt

How I made it

  1. Run a bamboo skewer through the fish from the mouth and salt it
  2. Stand the skewer in the hearth ash and roast slowly beside the coals

Sources: city.hamamatsu.shizuoka.jp

This moment in the journey

Boar hot pot and yamame over the hearth

Dinner would be cooked over the hearth. I lit charcoal in a clay brazier and carried it, brazier and all, into the hearth room. The coals glowed red on the ash, and the iron trivet warmed up. In the old days, people kept the house fire going and treated it with care.

Obvious as it is, life is hard without fire. Sitting before the hearth, I felt that again. I ran a bamboo skewer through each yamame from the mouth, salted them, and stood the skewers in the ash. This is the thing I had always wanted to try.

An iron pot hung from the pot hook: wild boar hot pot, with thin slices of boar, onion, enoki mushrooms and shirataki noodles. It bubbled away, and the boar hot pot was ready. I poured a beer into a glass mug, and dinner by the hearth began.

I'm sure I'm not the only one who longs for fish on a skewer. The radiant heat of the charcoal crisps the skin and leaves the flesh fluffy and delicious. Picking at the pot, I watched the fire. I love the hearth.

Watch this scene on YouTube5:53

Read this scene in the full journey

Black charcoal in a clay brazier
Black charcoal in a clay brazier
Charcoal beginning to glow red
Charcoal beginning to glow red
Carrying the lit brazier into the hearth room
Carrying the lit brazier into the hearth room
Glowing coals and an iron trivet on the hearth ash
Glowing coals and an iron trivet on the hearth ash
Holding two yamame on bamboo skewers
Holding two yamame on bamboo skewers
Standing the fish skewers in the hearth ash
Standing the fish skewers in the hearth ash
Moving coals with fire chopsticks, skewers in the ash
Moving coals with fire chopsticks, skewers in the ash
Crouching at the hearth to blow on the fire
Crouching at the hearth to blow on the fire