A little of each town’s story

Zangi

From: Below freezing outside, a fireplace within

Eating the ramen with a plate of zangi alongside

Fried chicken eaten all over Hokkaido. It is said to have begun around 1955 at a chicken restaurant in Kushiro that chopped up whole birds and fried them; one story says the name comes from the Chinese dish zhaji, with an extra "n" added for luck. The chicken is marinated in a sweet soy-based sauce before frying, so it is more strongly seasoned than ordinary karaage.

Sources: maff.go.jp

This moment in the journey

Miso ramen for a frozen body

In the falling snow, I ducked under the noren curtain of a diner. Miso ramen soaked into my frozen body and mind. Shibareru, the local word, means cold enough to freeze.

Yellow wavy noodles, a slice of naruto fish cake, chashu pork and green onions. Steam rose from the kitchen beyond the counter. I couldn't miss zangi either, Hokkaido's specialty: chicken marinated in sauce and deep-fried, served piled high on a plate.

A counter with red stools, a wall of framed calligraphy and signed boards, a menu on the table by the window. A homely diner that warmed me to the core.

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Miso ramen topped with naruto fish cake and chashu

Lifting the wavy noodles with chopsticks

The diner's kitchen seen over the counter

The diner's sign and noren in falling snow

The diner's wall hung with framed calligraphy and signed boards

← All travel notes

Nabeyaki udon

Fried chika

Wakasagi and ice fishing

Hokkaido dialect

Soda Shokudo

Kani Goten