Journeys in photographs and words.
Kanazawa oden: daikon, kurumafu and akamaki
Kanazawa oden: daikon, kurumafu and akamaki

Kanazawa's oden uses a broth of kombu and bonito flakes with light soy sauce, and local ingredients such as Kaga vegetables and Hokuriku seafood. Many shops serve it all year, not just in winter. Typical ingredients include kurumafu, akamaki with its red-and-white swirl, and Gensuke daikon, and shops in business for more than 50 years have formed the Kanazawa Oden 50-Year Club.

Sources: nap-camp.com

This moment in the journey

Kanazawa oden and a local seafood bowl

A shopping street, I think, lets you feel the air of a town on your skin. At a steaming oden stall, the menu also offered grilled oysters and scallops in butter.

For lunch I wanted to enjoy Kanazawa's specialties, so I went into Ichiba Meshi Amatsubo, a restaurant in a corner of the market, and ordered Kanazawa oden and a seafood bowl. The oden came with daikon steeped in broth, kurumafu wheat-gluten rings and akamaki fish cake with its red-and-white swirl. Using local Kanazawa ingredients, and being eaten all year round: those, I was told, are the definitions of Kanazawa oden.

The seafood bowl was made with local fish too: sweet shrimp, salmon roe, flaked crab and white fish on shiso leaves. I drizzled soy sauce over it and poured non-alcoholic beer into a blue cut-glass cup. I felt welcomed by all these dishes made from local ingredients. Thank you, god of fortune.

Watch this scene on YouTube2:26

Read this scene in the full journey

A steaming Kanazawa oden stall, with a menu for grilled oysters
A steaming Kanazawa oden stall, with a menu for grilled oysters
An oden counter behind the steam
An oden counter behind the steam
The Amatsubo sign and noren for Kanazawa oden and seafood bowls
The Amatsubo sign and noren for Kanazawa oden and seafood bowls
A stand-up sign for seafood bowls from a long-established Kanazawa restaurant
A stand-up sign for seafood bowls from a long-established Kanazawa restaurant
A seafood bowl of sweet shrimp, salmon roe and white fish, with miso soup
A seafood bowl of sweet shrimp, salmon roe and white fish, with miso soup
Daikon, kurumafu and akamaki soaked in broth
Daikon, kurumafu and akamaki soaked in broth
Breaking the daikon with chopsticks
Breaking the daikon with chopsticks
A piece of daikon lifted with chopsticks
A piece of daikon lifted with chopsticks