Hiroshima Prefecture grows more lemons than any other in Japan: 4,861 tons in 2020, or 56% of the national crop. Setoda in Onomichi (Ikuchi and Kone islands) has a mild climate and well-drained granite soil, and has been developed as a lemon-growing area since 1927. Open-field lemons are harvested from around October; green lemons, picked before they turn yellow, have a fresher aroma and sharper acidity, and yellow lemons follow from December to April.
Sources: pref.hiroshima.lg.jp
This moment in the journey
With green lemons from Setoda
I had bought some locally grown Setoda lemons. Setoda, on Ikuchi Island in Onomichi, is one of Japan's biggest lemon-growing areas, and Hiroshima Prefecture produces more than half of the country's lemons. The ones in my hand were still green. From autumn onwards, I was told, these brightly colored green lemons come onto the market.
I cut one in half, poured soda water over ice, and squeezed in a wedge. The lemon bobbed among the bubbles. Sitting by the window, looking out at the garden, I took a sip. The refreshing sourness felt wonderful after a day of walking the slopes.
Watch this scene on YouTube1:50
More notes from this journey
Onomichi, Hiroshima
Onomichi-yaki
Onomichi's okonomiyaki is called Onomichi-yaki.
From: Onomichi ramen and homemade okonomiyaki
Onomichi, Hiroshima
Cinema Onomichi
The only cinema in Onomichi, the movie town known for Ozu's Tokyo Story and Obayashi's Onomichi trilogy.
From: Onomichi ramen and homemade okonomiyaki
Onomichi, Hiroshima
The former Yamato-yu bathhouse
A former public bathhouse in the Onomichi Hondori arcade, with a concrete facade and an arched entrance.
From: Onomichi ramen and homemade okonomiyaki
Onomichi, Hiroshima
Onomichi Hondori Shopping Street
An arcade about 1.6 kilometers long, running east to west between the sea and the hills.
From: Onomichi ramen and homemade okonomiyaki
Onomichi, Hiroshima
Onomichi ramen
A soy sauce broth combined with stock from Setouchi small fish such as dried sardines, topped with pork back fat.
From: Onomichi ramen and homemade okonomiyaki
Onomichi, Hiroshima
Yakuza 6 and its Onomichi setting
The poster on the ramen shop wall was for Yakuza 6: The Song of Life, released in December 2016.
From: Onomichi ramen and homemade okonomiyaki
More notes from Chugoku & Shikoku
Onomichi, Hiroshima
Octopus rice (tako-meshi)
A regional dish of Hiroshima handed down in Mihara, Onomichi and Fukuyama.
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Shippoku udon
A winter dish found throughout Kagawa.
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Mitoyo, Kagawa
Niku mosso
A beef version of mossou-meshi, a traditional dish of Mitoyo.
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Mackerel sandwich with Setouchi lemon
Breakfast in a fishing village on the Seto Inland Sea, made with the region's Setouchi lemon and eaten on the beach in front of the inn.
From: Shimanami Kaido: sea-bream rice and a salty breeze
Matsuyama, Ehime
Jako-ten, prawns and Ehime wagyu on a charcoal grill
Jako-ten is a deep-fried fish-paste cake from the Nanyo region of southern Ehime.
From: Shimanami Kaido: sea-bream rice and a salty breeze
Matsuyama, Ehime
Tai-meshi, sashimi-bowl style
Ehime has two kinds of tai-meshi.
From: Shimanami Kaido: sea-bream rice and a salty breeze