Journeys in photographs and words.

Cook the local flavors once more

Aridagawa, Wakayama

Chestnut rice (kuri gohan)

From: Chestnuts, saury and an autumn feast

A bowl of chestnut rice sprinkled with black sesame
A bowl of chestnut rice sprinkled with black sesame

My first chestnut rice, made with chestnuts I had picked myself. The hard outer shell is called onikawa, the demon skin, and the thin inner skin shibukawa, the astringent skin; a quick boil or a soak in hot water softens them before peeling. It is not easy work, but it empties the mind.

Ingredients

  • Chestnuts (freshly picked)
  • Rice
  • Black sesame seeds

How I made it

  1. Soak the chestnuts in water for a while to drive out insects and soften the shells
  2. Boil briefly, cut a notch in the base, and peel off the hard outer shell
  3. Soak in hot water again, peel away the inner skin, and drop into water
  4. Cook with the rice, serve in bowls, and sprinkle with black sesame

This moment in the journey

An autumn feast

The chestnut rice turned out beautifully. When I lifted the lid of the pot, golden chestnuts tumbled into view. The foil parcel of mushrooms I grilled over the charcoal in the garden; opening it released steam and the smell of butter.

On the table: chestnut rice sprinkled with black sesame, the foil-grilled mushrooms, and the bonito and mandarin carpaccio. I poured a non-alcoholic beer, and the autumn feast began. Rich bonito and juicy early mandarin, together in one bite. Wakayama's strongest tag team, perhaps.

Seasonal flavors, made from ingredients I had harvested myself. It felt as if I had turned the page of the season with my own hands, and that made me very happy. Ah, autumn, the season of appetite. Out on the veranda, a lamp glowed in the night.

Watch this scene on YouTube4:54

Read this scene in the full journey

The pot of freshly cooked chestnut rice
The pot of freshly cooked chestnut rice
Folding the chestnut rice with a paddle
Folding the chestnut rice with a paddle
The chestnut rice, mixed through
The chestnut rice, mixed through
The foil parcel on the wire over the coals
The foil parcel on the wire over the coals
Opening the foil parcel
Opening the foil parcel
The foil parcel half open
The foil parcel half open
The grilled mushrooms inside the foil
The grilled mushrooms inside the foil
Picking up the can at the table
Picking up the can at the table