Journeys in photographs and words.

A little of each town’s story

Numazu, Shizuoka

Numazu himono, dried horse mackerel

From: Gifts of the sea in a town that looks out on Mt. Fuji

Freshly grilled horse mackerel on a black plate
Freshly grilled horse mackerel on a black plate

Numazu is one of Japan's leading producers of dried fish; fish drying at the Numazu post town even appears in Hiroshige's Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido. From the late Meiji to the Taisho era, dried-fish wholesalers clustered around the mouth of the Kano River, and by the early Showa era the present method was established: the fish is split open, gutted, soaked in brine and dried in the sun. A mild climate and sea breezes, abundant spring water from Mt. Fuji, fresh fish from Suruga Bay and the growth of transport such as the Tokaido Line are said to have supported the industry. This time I grilled dried horse mackerel from the port and mixed it into rice.

Sources: shizuoka-gastronomy.jp

This moment in the journey

Making a Numazu bowl from the treasures of Suruga Bay

Time to make dinner. I opened the grill and cooked Numazu's dried horse mackerel, packed with the flavor of Suruga Bay. When the rice cooker was done, I took the grilled fish off the bones and mixed it into the hot rice.

The horse mackerel sashimi became tataki: I chopped it fine with a knife, and set half of it aside in a bowl with white sesame and soy sauce to marinate. Something to look forward to tomorrow morning. Half of the cherry-colored treasures of Suruga Bay went into kakiage: mixed with batter and dropped into amber sesame oil, they fried up beautifully.

Over the horse mackerel rice in a blue bowl went shredded nori, then the tataki and raw whitebait on shiso leaves, and finally the raw sakura shrimp and green onion. The Numazu bowl was complete.

Watch this scene on YouTube5:56

Read this scene in the full journey

The door of the fish grill
The door of the fish grill
Pulling open the grill
Pulling open the grill
Dried horse mackerel grilled on the rack
Dried horse mackerel grilled on the rack
A microwave and a rice cooker in the kitchen
A microwave and a rice cooker in the kitchen
Taking the horse mackerel off the bones
Taking the horse mackerel off the bones
Flaked horse mackerel on hot rice in a glass bowl
Flaked horse mackerel on hot rice in a glass bowl
Mixing the fish into the rice in the bowl
Mixing the fish into the rice in the bowl
Slicing horse mackerel sashimi on the board
Slicing horse mackerel sashimi on the board