Journeys in photographs and words.

Cook the local flavors once more

Onomichi, Hiroshima

Onomichi-yaki

From: Onomichi ramen and homemade okonomiyaki

The Onomichi-yaki on the table, still in the pan
The Onomichi-yaki on the table, still in the pan

Onomichi's okonomiyaki is called Onomichi-yaki. It includes chicken gizzard and the town's squid tempura, said to account for more than half of Japan's production, giving it a crunchy bite. Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki grew out of the prewar snack issen-yoshoku and took its present form after the war: a thin layer of batter layered with cabbage, pork and yakisoba, steam-grilled and finished with sweet sauce and dried green seaweed. Gizzard and squid tempura are the Onomichi touch; other towns have their own versions, such as Fuchu-yaki with minced meat and Kure-yaki with thin udon. This time I cooked it in a frying pan instead of on a griddle.

Ingredients

  • Flour batter
  • Cabbage
  • Yakisoba noodles
  • Chicken gizzard
  • Squid tempura
  • Egg
  • Okonomiyaki sauce
  • Dried green seaweed (aonori)

How I made it

  1. Shred the cabbage thin and fry the gizzard in a pan
  2. Pour a thin layer of batter into the pan and spread it out
  3. Pile on the cabbage and noodles, then scatter the fried gizzard
  4. Slide onto a plate, flip back into the pan, and press with a spatula
  5. Crack and stir an egg in the empty pan, then move the okonomiyaki onto it to cook
  6. Top with okonomiyaki sauce and dried green seaweed

Sources: ononavi.jp maff.go.jp

This moment in the journey

Onomichi-yaki, coming right up

A generous pour of okonomiyaki sauce, a sprinkle of dried green seaweed, and the Onomichi-yaki is ready. I carried it to the table, pan and all, with a glass of lemon soda alongside.

Watch this scene on YouTube3:50

Read this scene in the full journey

Pouring sauce over the okonomiyaki
Pouring sauce over the okonomiyaki
A close-up of the okonomiyaki sprinkled with green seaweed
A close-up of the okonomiyaki sprinkled with green seaweed
A glass of lemon soda in my hand
A glass of lemon soda in my hand