Journeys in photographs and words.

A little of each town’s story

Hualien, Taiwan

Maqaw (馬告), the mountain pepper

From: Hualien: the sea and delicious everyday life

A skewer of maqaw sausage in hand
A skewer of maqaw sausage in hand

Maqaw is the Atayal word for the mountain pepper native to Taiwan. It grows in broadleaf forests in the low mountains, mainly around Wulai, Nantou and Hualien. In the days when salt was hard to come by, the Atayal used its seeds as a seasoning, to add fragrance and take away unwanted smells. Most of it is still gathered in the wild. It flavors dishes such as maqaw chicken soup and maqaw sausage.

Sources: foodnext.net

This moment in the journey

Indigenous food at the night market

When it comes to the pleasures of Taiwan, nothing beats a night market. Hualien has a big one, Dongdamen Night Market, with more than 400 stalls. Through the gate of Indigenous Street (原住民一條街), stalls selling Taiwanese indigenous food lined the way.

Over a charcoal grill sizzled sausages seasoned with maqaw (馬告), a rare spice said to grow wild deep in the mountains where Taiwan's indigenous peoples live. It smells refreshingly of lemongrass. Then bamboo-tube rice (竹筒飯), cooked inside a length of bamboo: split it open, and out came a roll of chewy sticky rice.

The scent of bamboo in the rice and the fresh fragrance of maqaw livened up the hot night. In Taiwan, there is a festive atmosphere in everyday life.

Watch this scene on YouTube5:04

Read this scene in the full journey

The gate of Indigenous Street
The gate of Indigenous Street
The illuminated Indigenous Street sign and arrow
The illuminated Indigenous Street sign and arrow
Signs and lights of indigenous food stalls
Signs and lights of indigenous food stalls
Bags of cut watermelon
Bags of cut watermelon
Sausages grilling over charcoal at a stall
Sausages grilling over charcoal at a stall
Skewered sausages lined up on the griddle
Skewered sausages lined up on the griddle
Opening the wrapping at a night-market table
Opening the wrapping at a night-market table
Holding the skewer
Holding the skewer