Journeys in photographs and words.

Places we stopped along the way

Kyoto City, Kyoto

Toraya Karyo Kyoto Ichijo

From: An ordinary morning in a hundred-year-old Kyoto townhouse

A three-colored sweet, a white bun and matcha on a black tray
A three-colored sweet, a white bun and matcha on a black tray

Toraya's tearoom in Kyoto, the city where the confectioner was founded. Renovated in 2009 to a design by architect Hiroshi Naito, it has a ceiling of Yoshino cedar that curves in a gentle arch. The garden on the north side has a water basin, a lawn, plum and cherry trees, and an old storehouse and a small Inari shrine at the back. The seasonal sweets change twice a month; this time I had a three-colored sweet, a white bun and matcha.

400 Hirohashidono-cho, Ichijo-dori Karasuma Nishi-iru, Kamigyo-ku, Kyoto

Sources: rurubu.jp

This moment in the journey

Tea time, looking out on the garden

In the afternoon I went from the banks of the Shirakawa up to Kamigyo. A townhouse with a blue noren curtain, a red lantern beside a purple noren, white plum blossoms just opening on a mossy branch: the end of winter in Kyoto.

My destination was Toraya Karyo Kyoto Ichijo, near Karasuma-Ichijo, the tearoom of the confectioner Toraya in the city where it was founded. Under a cedar ceiling that curves in a gentle arch, I took a seat looking out through the glass onto the garden.

On a black tray came a seasonal sweet layered in yellow, white and pink, a white bun stamped with a pink mark, and a bowl of freshly whisked matcha. Tea time, looking out on a garden, the Kyoto way. On the table stood pink chrysanthemums. A slow afternoon. A happy hour.

Watch this scene on YouTube2:29

Read this scene in the full journey

The front of a townhouse with a blue noren curtain and lattices
The front of a townhouse with a blue noren curtain and lattices
A red lantern and a purple noren along the stone embankment
A red lantern and a purple noren along the stone embankment
White plum blossoms opening on a mossy branch
White plum blossoms opening on a mossy branch
The entrance with the Toraya noren and stone steps
The entrance with the Toraya noren and stone steps
The tearoom facing the garden, seen through the glass
The tearoom facing the garden, seen through the glass
Holding the bowl of matcha in both hands
Holding the bowl of matcha in both hands
Pink chrysanthemums arranged on the table
Pink chrysanthemums arranged on the table
Setting down the tea bowl beside the sweets
Setting down the tea bowl beside the sweets